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Frequently Asked Questions

  1. Check to make sure there is power going to the fixture.  All of our LED drivers (except fixtures intended for POE connection) operate on 120-277 volt AC power.  Some units for Canada may contain 347 volt drivers.  Ensure that the disconnect plug is fully connected.
  2. Check for proper polarity, black from driver is (+) AC power input, white wire is neutral (-).
  3. Most LED drivers we use are NOT suitable for use with Triac or other line voltage type dimming controls.  Connection of AC power leads to any type of dimming control may damage the driver and void the warranty.
  4. Purple and gray wires are for connection to 0-10 volt type dimming controls only!  Connecting these wires to AC power will cause driver failure and void the driver warranty.
  5. Make sure LED board disconnect is plugged into driver – many models contain these to facilitate easy removal of the LED board trays during fixture installation.
  6. If equipped with one piece emergency battery backup, ensure that the small battery connector plugs are connected to each other.  For two part battery backup units ensure that the charger module in plugged into battery pack.
  7. Check wire connections at the driver – these are often poke-in type terminal connections which may have loosened during shipping and handling.
  8. Check connections at the boards – connections are made by pushing the wire into the terminals at the ends of the board arrays and may loosen or dislodge during handling or shipping.  If one board lights on a two board array, check that the interconnect wires are fully inserted into the connectors.  This applies to the connections between the individual boards as well.  Some board to board connections are made with interconnect pins.  The pin should be centered between the connectors.  Intermittent operation of one board may be caused by incomplete connection between boards as the board temperature increases during operation.
  9. LED boards may be wired in parallel, series or a combination of the two.  DO NOT ALTER FACTORY WIRING!
  10. Contact factory for LED board and driver replacement parts.  Most LED drivers we use require programming on specialized equipment to set drive currents and other operating parameters to match the exact board type installed.  DO NOT INSTALL ‘OFF THE SHELF’ DRIVERS or LED boards without confirming the proper drive currents, wattage and forward voltage.

Often a fixture becomes inoperative due to causes not attributable to the ballast. It is therefore important to examine all fixture components before removing the ballast for replacement. We recommend the following general procedures for both magnetic and electronic ballast.

  1. Replace or check all lamps to ensure satisfactory operation.
  2. As lamps are removed, examine all sockets to ensure they are not damaged or broken and are making proper and positive contact with the lamps.
  3. Examine all electrical connections within the fixture, including at the lamp sockets, to ensure conformance with the wiring diagram on the ballast.

Cold temperatures usually cause lamplight swirling or spiraling, when the light appears to swirl or spiral inside the tube. This is even more prevalent when “Energy Saver” lamps are used – these often have higher starting temperatures and will not function correctly in colder applications. 

In this case, shield the lamps from the cold draft, from air-conditioning or other sources by using a plastic jacket available from distributors. Make sure the plastic jacket (tube guard) is rated for the lamp/ballast combination. It is not advisable to use tube guards with instant start T8 ballasts as high heat from the lamp ends at end of lamp life may cause the tube guards to melt if the lamps are not changed immediately.

This problem may also be caused by low input voltage or lamp and ballast incompatibility. Check the input voltage, which should be the ballast rated voltage +/-7.5% or change the lamp to a known good lamp. If the condition still exists, change the ballast.

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